Land of the Portuguese: touring Lisbon and its surrounding areas

Fresh off our trip from the rugged Moroccan desert in 2017, sand falling off our hair like pixie dust and sweat dripping from our skin, we landed into the charming and beautiful town of Lisbon, Portugal. Lisbon borders Spain in the west, near the coast of the Atlantic ocean but situated along the Tagus River.

Lisbon is a laid-back town, home to eclectic groups of people within the backdrop of an old fashioned European city. The port city is a major thoroughfare for goods, tourists and transportation. Lisbon, like many coastal towns, is known for its seafood culture, and is cheaper than most European cities.

Folk music, called Fado, plays a significant role in the city’s life, reflecting the melancholy state of Lisboetas. According to legend, the city was founded by Odysseus, the hero of Homer’s epic poem, The Odyssey.

The Roman empire encapsulated the city under their control from 205 BCE to 409 CE. It was later conquered by Visigoths, followed by Muslims of northern Africa for about 400 years. Crusader forces later took the city in 1147.

Many traders of German, Flemish, Dutch, English, and French descent established their trading businesses in Lisbon during the 15th-16th century. The despicable and inhumane African slave trade is a major characteristic of the country’s long history. The Portuguese dominated the slave trade during the late 15th century to the 16th century over other nations involved such as the Dutch, English, and French. 

Formerly a major colonial power in Europe, Portugal overtook sovereign societies in South America during the 15th century. Portuguese explorers colonized Brazil setting up plantations and mining, where they became rich off of gold and diamond deposits.

During our week long stay in Lisbon, we lived near the Alameda metro station, not too far from Alfama, the main downtown area of the city.

Alfama District

Alfama, located on the edge of the Tagus river, rolls on a labyrinth of hills. The buildings are built close together, similar to other cities, to take advantage of as much of the space as possible. It is the oldest area of the city. The district used to be considered of low status, a poor area where dock workers and fishermen lived. However since then, the area has become a trendy district with many artists adopting the neighborhood as their home.

Found within this maze are many old and decrepit buildings, stunning graffiti, and interesting public spaces. Walking through Alfama can be tortuous as you hike up the steep hills or stairs. The famous Number 28 tram can be taken through the area. It is the oldest tram in the city.

Bairro Alto

Bairro Alto, west of Alfama, is where all the interesting crowds of Lisbon go. Dating from the 1500’s, this cute bohemian neighborhood was a mecca for artists and writers. In the evening the nightlife in Bairro Alto transforms into a lively party. Many social night-owls are found in the late night dive bars and Fado bars lining the narrow streets of this area.

We found that buying drinks in the city were incredibly cheap, comparable to prices in Berlin. During our night out, Tv. da Cara street was tightly packed with party-goers spilling out of the bars. The dense crowd was a sight to see.

Praça do Comércio

Vast and wide, the Praça do Comércio, also known as the Commerce Square, is a large plaza. The Baroque-style building surrounding the plaza was built during the 18th century. You can walk through the grand corridor with open-air archways, crossing from one side of the structure to the next. Its roof matches the red tiles of the surrounding old buildings. The walls are painted yellow, significantly brightening the plaza.

A tall intricately beautiful archway stands in between the buildings, and a grand statue of King Jose I is featured in the middle of the plaza. He ruled during the reconstruction of the city after the infamous earthquake of 1755, one of the most devastating European natural disasters in the course of that time period.

Miradouro Sophia de Mello Breyner Andresen

For a birds-eye view of the city head to Miradouro Sophia de Mello Breyner Andresen. This viewpoint is named after Sophia de Mello Breyner Andresen, the most important Portuguese poet of the 20th century. At this viewpoint you can experience a visually stunning wide expanse of the city.

Speaking of poets and writers, we briefly visited Casa Fernando Pessoa, a cultural centre and library dedicated to the poet. The Portuguese poet, Fernando Pessoa, is one of the most significant European writers of the 20th century. Pessoa is a brilliantly eloquent writer who speaks honestly of his feelings, scrutinizing life’s philosophical questions, and examining the idiocy of human expectations.

Sesimbra

Sesimbra, south of Lisbon, is a town where many locals vacation. The stunning coastline stretches along white beaches and crystal clear blue waters. We took a 40 minute bus from the city to Sesimbra over the Tagus river, crossing the Ponte 25 de Abril, a suspension bridge which opened in 1966. 

Hiking passed the main coastline, and climbing a hill along houses, you will reach a mesmerizing clear beach called Ribeiro do Cavalo. Once you get to the top of the hill, you need to hike down a steep cliff. Although it’s risky, the hike is manageable. Ribeiro do Cavalo is quiet, forming a small stretch of sandy area. The waters of the Atlantic are shockingly cold, even in the summer month of June when we went.

Cascais

West of Lisbon is a coastal fishing town called Cascais. This is an easy day trip from Lisbon using their regional trains, about an hour away from Lisbon centre. Before the 20th century, the Portuguese nobility used to vacation here. You can relax on the beach, visit the museums, enjoy the waterfront harbour and historic monuments, or eat in restaurants and shop at the boutique stores. We spent a lot of time standing at the edge of the rocky, craggy cliffs overlooking the ocean. 

North of the town towards Parque Natural de Sintra-Cascais is the most westerly point of the European continent, the Cabo da Roca. Stand over the tall major cliffs to peer over the final continental coastline, and watch the belly of the ocean break against the dangerous rocks below.

Sintra

Sintra is a popular destination spot for many travellers heading to Portugal. It is a small town known for its grand palaces and intricate architectural design. From Lisbon centre, the train will take you to Sintra in 40 minutes. The city is home to the Palacio Nacional de Sintra, designed in a medieval gothic style, formerly used as a royal residence between the 15th-19th centuries. The structure is noticeably captivating by the two large white coned chimneys.

The gorgeous town offers more castles to visit, including the Castelo dos Mouros and the Palácio da Pena. The Castelo dos Mouros was built upon massive rocky boulders by northern Africans during their rule of the region. After their reign the castle went into disrepair, but was later reconstructed with Palácio da Pena for decorative purposes.

The Palácio da Pena is a highlight for many visitors because of its beautiful sunny colour. The interior of this grand palace is uniquely amazing. If you are here for only one day and would like to see as much of the town, then it is best to get a tour guide. It’ll be easier than hiking through the hilly town. Make sure to visit the historic city centre in Sintra, which is a haven for tourists with many cute shops, cobble-stoned streets, restaurants and cafes.

Portugal is a fairy-tale country which inspires a sense of romanticism, especially in Lisbon, where the mature aspects of the city coupled with architecturally bright colours and its proximity to nature, form a sentiment of both sadness and optimism. We hope to explore more of the country in our future travels.

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