Bangkok: the City of Temples and Canals

If one yearns to see the dazzling colours and intricate motifs of lotus flowers in paintings and wall carvings on beautiful grand Buddhist temple architecture, then one must visit the capital of Thailand, Bangkok. Tranquil and meditative chanting emanates from the numerous temples (called “Wat” in the Thai and Khmer language) in the city. Among the stunning Buddhist temples are also numerous Chao Phraya River delta canals, buzzing with street shops, restaurants, and markets.

To witness how Buddhism has shaped a society—in its tradition and devotional culture—one must visit Thailand and Myanmar (including Laos and Cambodia, who are now returning to their former glory after their troubled flirtations with Communism). Every now and then, an orange-robed monk passes by you, or you will encounter shops selling Buddha statues in varying sizes alongside cultural artifacts. Interestingly, the nation of Siam, or present-day Thailand, was the only country in Asia that was able to remain free from European colonial invasions.

I visited Bangkok with that yearning and was not disappointed. I had the opportunity to visit some of the landmark temples, queuing up in long lines of visitors and devotees. However, before I share my experience of Buddhist temple visits, here is a brief historical background on Bangkok and Thailand as a whole to help understand the Thai people and their culture.

A Brief History of Thailand and Bangkok

Thai people trace their lineage to the Dai people of southern China, and the people of the Khmer Empire and Myanmar. They migrated to the south and eked out a kingdom in 1238 CE from the Khmer Empire. The capital was at Sukhothai, located at about 430 km northeast of the present-day capital of Bangkok. The Ayutthaya Kingdom (1350–1767) expanded and defined the nation of Siam. Buddhism was already prevalent in these kingdoms, often attributed to the missionaries sent by the Great Mauryan Emperor Ashoka (304–232 BCE). Although, the present predominant Theravada traditions of these peoples are largely attributed to the efforts and influence of Sri Lankan monks.

Bangkok was founded by King Taksin on the bank of Chao Phraya River—on a village known as Bang Makok. By driving out the invading Burmese, the King relocated the old Sukhothai capital first to Thonburi (old city), then to the present location in 1782. He was the founding King of the present Chakree Dynasty, and assumed the name King Rama I. The later King Rama IV, through his negotiations with the British in 1855, managed to keep his kingdom free of colonial rule. During the reign of King Rama VII, in the 1930s period of The Great Depression, the King abolished the remunerations and privileges of army officers and civil servants. This was highly unpopular and forced the King to share power. Thus in 1932, the Kingdom of Siam became a constitutional monarchy starting with the 10-year old King Rama VIII. From then on, the nation of Siam was renamed, Thailand.

The present King Rama X assumed the throne in 2019 after the death of his father, who was the longest reigning popular King Rama IX. Named Bhumibol Adulyadej, he reigned from1946 to 2016.        

Therefore, a trip to Bangkok must include visits to the monumental and impressive Buddhist temples that pay homage to the country’s royal and religious history. Here is an outline of five exquisitely-designed Buddhist temples (or, Wat) that you must visit. Many of which are located within or near the Grand Palace complex east of the Chao Phraya River.

Wat Saket

Wat Saket is located on a hilltop and houses a precious Buddha relic, including a solid gold Buddha statue. The white base of the temple adorned with multiple golden bell-shaped stupas are visible from a distance. I visited the temple in the evening after visiting Krabi, a coastal town south of the country. Wat Saket was already closed to visitors, but the volunteers let us in. A winding staircase decorated with statues and themes depicting the Buddha’s life leads visitors into the temple. The top floor of the temple remained closed, but we were able to walk to the roof of the large gold stupa. Other landmark temples are also visible from the hill, so consider visiting Wat Saket in the morning during a clear day.

Wat Pho

Wat Pho is the famous temple of the Reclining Buddha. Among the crowded tourists and performance of Buddhist songs by young Thais, we walked around the temple embellished in awe-inspiring spires of bell-shaped stupas made of intricate colorful carvings. Similar to designs of other temples in the Grand Palace, the roof of Wat Pho is also multi-layered, colourful, gilded, and rough at the edges. It houses the enormous statue of the Reclining Buddha, which extends from one end of the temple to the other. Its magnificent size is captivating. On another side of the temple are the standing images of Buddha’s top disciples (Arhants).

Wat Arun

Wat Arun (the Temple of Dawn) is a 19^th century bell-shaped temple complex and is located on the bank of the Chao Phraya River. To reach this temple, you must take a quick ferry across the river. It is one of the most recognizable landmarks of Bangkok, and as usual, thronged with devotees and tourists.

The central tower is about 86 metres tall and surrounded by small bell-shaped stupas. One remarkable feature of the temple is its intricate carvings on white marble and porcelain, each layer more detailed than the last. The concentrated focus involved in the painting and design of Wat Arun reminds one of Buddhist monks who create and colour sand mandalas as part of a meditative exercise.

Wat Phra Kaew

Wat Phra Kaew, built in 1782, houses the famous Emerald Buddha in its temple complex within the outer court of the Grand Palace. The orange and green multi-layered roof of the temple feature wavy points at the corners, reminding one of flames, and is raised by towering, gilded columns. The outer walls of the structure radiates in purple-blue patterns.

The Buddha statue inside was carved from a single block of emerald stone. In the presence of palace guards, the queue to enter the temple was long but quiet and disciplined. Only the King is allowed to touch the Emerald Buddha. The King changes the gold cloth of the Buddha during auspicious Buddhist occasions in front of blessing and chanting monks. During such royal ceremonies, the temple complex remains closed to visitors.

Within the complex is the exact replica of the Angkor Wat of Cambodia. The replica was carved at the insistence of the King Rama I. He was so impressed with the Angkor structure that he wanted to build it in full scale, but had to abandon the idea due to the project’s large cost.

Wat Traimit in Chinatown

On the last leg of my Bangkok trip, I visited the old area of the city where the Wat Traimit houses the world’s largest solid gold Buddha statue. This complex is close to the city’s Chinatown. The 3-metre tall, solid gold Buddha statue weights 5.5 tonne and is about 700 years old. There are also small temples on the premise of Wat Traimit.

Chinatown and Temples

Apart from the famous temples, you can also find beautiful Buddhist temples in Bangkok’s Chinatown. Similar to most major cities around the world, the neighbourhood includes a China Gate. There you can find Mahayana Buddhist temples in beautiful Chinese architecture. Of course, make sure to browse the busy streets of Chinese restaurants, including the narrow market areas of maze-like pathways for shopping.

— By Dr. Dilip K. Barua

Copyright © Dilip K. Barua 2020

About the Author:

Dr. Barua is a coastal, marine and ocean engineering professional with more than 30 years of research and versatile work experience. As a researcher, his work has been published in many academic journals, including his website Wide Canvas where he discusses nature, social interactions, and science & technology.